Fitz & cesky pivo

El Chanten a destive pocasi. Asi tak by se dala popsat nase navsteva v malem mestecku, vzdalenem cca 3,5 h od El Calafate, jez obklopuji hory ze vsech stran a neni tedy videt az do posledniho momentu. Stravili jsme zde celkem 2 dny turou k vrcholkum Fitz Roy a Cerro Torre. Prvne zmineny byl uspesnejsi nez druhy zmineny, nicmene ani v jednom pripade jsme to nemeli s pocasim nejlepsi. Prvni den nam to vyslo alespon z pulky a videli jsme skoro 3/4 celeho pohori Fitz Roy, ale u Cerro Torre uz jsme nevideli ani upati ... No nic, i tak to v obou pripadech byly pekne vyslapy a mi se vecer mohli potesit u praveho ceskeho piva v mistnim "minipivovaru", kde se vari pilsner podle ceske receptury (Medlesicky lezak) a chutna jedinecne. Vylet se vydaril a my jsme zas zpet v El Calafate po veceri a cekajic na zitrejsi odjezd do Mendozy. Hasta Luego.

Leeeedovec

Opet Argentina a tentokrat ledovcova oblast okolo mestecka El Calafate. Cely dnesni den jsme stravili na lodi a pozdeji i na vyhlidkach u ledovce Perito Moreno. Takova velkolepa podivana se Vam nikde jinde nenaskytne, snad leda tak jeste na Antarktide. Ac neni Perito Moreno ledovcem zdaleka nejvetsim, vdeci za svoji popularitu sve dostupnosti po silnici z jiz zminovaneho mestecka. Pocasi nam neuveritelne pralo a my jsme meli tedy cely den uplne nadherne podminky pro kochani se a fotografovani. Skoda jen, ze zadna z fotografii neprenese ten pocit, kdy stojite jen par desitek metru(cca 50m) od vysokych vrcholu ledovcovych vezi a slysite praskani ledu! Musi se zazit! Plni dojmu a pametovych karet nasich fotoaparatu se zitra vydavame na cestu do oblasti jen o par set kilometru vyse do El Chanten. Tady by jsme radi okoukly na ture horu Fitz Roy. Kdyz pujde vsechno i nadale tak jak doted, presuneme se nasledne do Mendozy a preskocime tak zastavku v Bariloche. Oblast Bariloche je totiz jiz taky pomalu zasazena vulkanickou aktivitou z El Chalten v Chile a pada tam jemny popilek. Nektera mista muzou byt i nadale evakuovana, protoze se ocekava nova aktivita vulkanu, radeji se tomu vyhneme. Tak Adios Amigos.

Buenos Aires Visual

A couple of pics from the city of tango: El mejor "steak house" we found so far, incredibly delicious and cheap beef with vino de mesa;-) simply the best!...Maradona, of course...the famous Caminito in La Boca neighbourhood, dancing tango in La Boca, one of many graffitis (especially for Iva;-) , Galicia in BA (especially for mis gallegos!), everybody watches TV in the BA Subte (metro), BA planetarium and our dear Gabrosek (BTW, Argentina has the second biggest meteor in the world)

Ohen nebo voda?

Ohnova zeme na konci sveta nebo destive pocasi v Chile? Tezko si vybirat, kazdy kousek zeme, co jsme tady zatim navstivili, ma sve. V Ushuaii, kam jsme se premistili z Buenos Aires letecky, jsme si uzili moc pekne dny, jednak vystupem k ledovci Glaciar Martial jeden den a druhy den pak probehla navsteva narodniho parku Tierra del Fuego. Podzimni barvy s pohledem na prilehle more udelali svoje a my se zde zdrzeli az do pozdni seste hodiny. K Argentine samozrejme patri i jidlo a tak nam nemohla uniknout zastavka v mistnich restauracich a pod heslem "All You Can Eat" jsme si za par argentinskych pesos nacpali briska tak, ze nam az bylo spatne. Nutno podotknouti, ze jsme po celou dobu v Ushuaii meli stesti na pocasi. To zminuji zamerne, protoze jsme se vydali do Puerto Natales, vynechajice Punta Arenas s tucnakama, kteri tu uz v tuhle dobu nejsou. V Natales jsme si uz za vyrazne chladnejsiho pocasi (uz tady opravdu prituhlo, ale jeste to porad dobre snasime) nasli pekne ubytovani u mistnich (nazyvane hospedajes), coz je hezkou alternativou oproti hostelum a clovek tak lepe nasaje atmosferu toho, jak se zde zije. Za uplne tmy jeste napul spici nasedame do minibusu a po vzoru japonskych skupinek se ritime do NP Torres del Paine, ktery je tak znamy, ze se o nem nemusim rozepisovat. V tuto rocni dobu je uz po vrcholu sezony a park zeje prazdnotou. O to vic je pro nas prijemnejsi, ze se pocasi dopoledne vyloupne a muzeme alepon na chvili zahlidnout vrcholky tech povestnych Torres a pak uz si uzivat solnych jezer, ledovcovych lagun a narustajiciho vetru s prichodem odpolednich hodin. Navsteva druheho NP v Chile byla stejne tak ojedinela a krasna jako ta prvni v Argentine. Pred nami je ted presun do El Calafate a nafoceni ledovce Perito Moreno. Zatim jsme meli led akorat tak ve sklenicce whisky nekde v baru. Ted nas ceka reka ledu pres 30km dlouha.

Pro ty, co by snad meli vetsi prehled o nasi ceste nez ostatni a domnivali se, ze jsme v nejakem nebezpeci kvuli erupci vulkanu Chaiten v Patagonii - vezte, ze nejsme! Chaiten je od nas daleko a ani do dane oblasti nemame namireno. Vice o erupci ZDE.

La Boca et al.

For those of you who are not so fluent in Czech I'll try to add some lines in English (or Spanish;-) now and then. Today was a great day (as somebody sings;-) and we're pretty tired again, yet our feet and legs are much worse off, that is, completely dead. We had a slow morning with a proper bodily clean-up, nice breakfast and some arranging of our upcoming future (we bought tickets to Ushuaia, the southernmost Argentinian town located, naturally, in Tierra del Fuego). Off by metro, we took it to the southernmost station (we were practicing going south;-) and then walked....I better admit we first ate again and we ate like kings! Shabby cafeteria packed with locals, mostly older men, fun and friendly camareros in the middle of the space, long U-shaped table all around them. A bit like sushi bars in Japan but there was no sushi passing by...but same as in Japan the waiter kept our dirty plates in front of us until we paid - as a reference of how much and what we have just consumed. Guess what we had...steaks, of course. A bit bloody and totally delicious! ;-) And a liter of beer for Jan (smaller bottles were not available) and some vino tinto for myself. Then we walked....we walked La Boca, which seemed a bit weird, a bit dangerous...and was felt so more and more as people told us "don't go that way, there are weird "chicos", "hide that camera", "put your backpack on your belly" etc. ...then we walked San Telmo, where we suddenly saw luxurious bars and shops yet there were some buildings that were falling apart too, ...and we walked el Microcentro, where Argentinian communists were holding a protest in front of the famous Casa Rosada (we took a pic of Evita's balcony) and where we saw our favorite street musicians (our second day here we saw them for the 3rd time and each time at a different place;-) (Still haven't bought their CD, we know we'll see them again;-) I must say the lunch and La Boca were the best. Not the dangerous La Boca, but the colourful, touristy La Boca, which is only three tiny streets big but worth the visit. Juan got to dance tango there with a professional dancer, but I did not manage to persuade him (I am glad!) to stay for a drink - he did not feel safe since the sunset was not far from arriving. We finished our outing at a traditional milonga (tango dance hall), where we had a cafe con leche and watched the tanguistas. Next time we'll dance...;-)